Koen’s Coffee Corner part of Mylifestyleblogs.com Channel

Brasil is apparently famous as the biggest coffee exporter. But only a few people know that the second position is held by Vietnam. Vietnam has a long history on coffee. When the Dutch was inhumanly forcing its kulturstelsel (never mind the spell — it is never important) in Nusantara (now Indonesia), the French colonist also started their own coffee plantations in Indochina, in the 19th century. Under communist government, however, Vietnamese coffee had been forgotten. Almost.

Since 1990s, when Vietnam redefined its interpretation of communism, they changed the way of development and management. They have been remanaging the coffee plantation, and then reexporting its beans worldwide. Vietnam’s coffee export got almost tripled only in four years, rising from 3,938 of 60 kg bags of coffee exported in 1995 to 11,264 of 60 kg bags in 1999. Almost all is of robusta variety, like here in Indonesia.

Generally, Vietnam’s coffee is valued lower in grade than that of other countries. But they have acknowledged the problem, and started to overcome it. For example, a state plan was issued, mentioning the country’s plan to diversify its robusta-saturated coffee growth and output, growing more arabica in its northern region.

They also started some other plans to attract the attention of premium coffee lovers. One of Vietnam’s domestic offerings, “weasel coffee,” has the potential to appeal to the palates of high-end drinkers the world over. Weasel coffee was originally made from coffee beans that had been eaten and excreted by weasels, enhancing the taste of the beans. In Indonesia, the beans are called “kopi luwak.” A chain of coffee shops in Vietnam specializes in weasel coffee, although these days the beans never see a weasel’s insides, rather going through a synthetic process intended to simulate the effects of a journey through the weasel’s digestive tract. They expect it to be as good as the real thing. While the owner of this chain has contemplated an international expansion of his business, citing possible franchises in Japan and New York City, the chain remains exclusively in Vietnam.

Topic: History

On his personal blog, my colleague Harry Sufehmi questioned the price of a cup of coffee on Starbucks cafe which could reach 10x the price of local-branded cafe. I have posted an unusually long comment on his blog entry, though. One of my point is that my nation, Indonesia, who has unquestionably the best coffee in the universe (haha), has no culture — and law — to save a partial number of the best coffee to be consumed domestically, for tourism etc. Almost all best coffee (and tea, and other) has been exported. The only thing we can do to sip some drops of Indonesian best coffee is to reimport it: to buy from Starbucks, Caswell, etc.

I have talked to a manager of a Starbucks cafe in Bandung, the town where I’m living. We have some similarities. One of them is that our favourite coffee brands are always Indonesian origin: Sulawesi, Sumatra, Ijen’s Java. And now I found this brand on a visit to Surabaya: Komodo Dragon.

The name Komodo reminds us of an island in southeast Lesser Sunda Islands of Indonesia; as well as a giant lizard species who only live naturally there. But Komodo Dragon is apparently not a variety of coffee planted on that region. Not so far from Lesser Sunda Islands, we could find a small country, Timor Lorosae, of which coffee is also internationally famous. And, no, this brand is not from that region either. This brand in a blend of Indonesian-only coffee varieties. A blend of my favourite coffee, in short :).

I just grinded the bean last night, and took the first sip this morning. Yeah, it was a great time :).

Then I spent a couple minutes to google it. Apparently, there are many coffee connoisseurs  have favored this blend. Customers on Amazon awarded it with five stars. Starbucks itself describes it as a full-body coffee with a brilliant crispness that is refreshing and unanticipated, since Indonesian coffees are low in acidity.

I have changed the text for my wake-up alarm. Previously, it was “Hey, it’s time to colourise the universe.” But, starting tomorrow, it will be “Hey, it’s time for another mug of Komodo Dragon.” I hope it will motivate me better :).

Topic: Indonesian, My Story, Sbux

Every town in Java (and other Indonesian islands as well) has their own coffee brand. Koffie Aroma from Bandung, Kapal Api from Surabaya, etc, have their own reputation regionally (and in some cases: internationally). Jakarta, as the first site in Indonesia where coffee trees were planted, has its own classical brand: Warung Tinggi.

The story began with a small food stall in Jakarta Kota (now named Jalan Hayam Wuruk), that sold local stuff to the neighbourhood. Each day, a woman visited the shop, carried fresh coffee bean in a basket on her head. The shop owner, Liauw Tek Siong, would buy the beans, traditionally roasted the coffee in a small pan, and sold the coffee. The coffee became famous, and Mr Liauw decided to open a new shop in 1878 to sell only coffee under a new brand: Tek Soen Hoo. This shop was then handed to his son, Liauw Tian Djie. This second Liauw stopped using pan, and started mechanizing the process using a roasting drum. Some years later, in 1938, they designed a logo for the coffee: a picture of a lady who originally sold them the coffee beans.

On Soe Har To’s new order era, the government discouraged the usage of chinese name or brand throughout the country. Liauw chose to change the brand of his coffee. Considering that his shop was famous as the highest food stall on the neighbourhood, he adopted the name Warung Tinggi (high shop) as his new brand.

The third generation took over the business in 1969, under Liauw Tiam Yan. The junior Liauw began packing his beans in aluminium foil instead of brown paper. In 1994, the production outpaced the capacity, and the roasting machines were moved out to Tangerang. In 2001, the Liauw family decided to split into two groups: one to continue with the Warung Tinggi brand, and the other to establish a new brand: Bakoel Koffie. Unfortunately, the Warung Tinggi brand was then sold to another investor. Now the Liauw’s fourth generation continues with the brand Bakoel Koffie.

If we are lucky, we can find both Warung Tinggi dan Bakoel Koffie brand in Jakarta. Sometimes we could also find Warung Tinggi with old package of brown paper, with label “Wartin” on it. It is another Indonesian culture: to make abbreviations of almost everything.

Reference: Gabriella Teggia, A Cup of Java.

Topic: History, Indonesian

Blogs should be personal — a good blog should tell a bit about its author. So today its my turn to reveal myself. The real me. I’m Koen. And all about my life have been told in detail both in Indonesian, English, and French. So I’d prefer to write how I prepare my coffee everyday.

As a typical Indonesian coffee lover, I used to make my daily coffee as kopi tubruk. Hmm, how to translate it to English? Impact coffee? Collision coffee? Caffè collizione? Hah. To prepare it, you’d simply put two teaspoonful of coffee grain to your mug, add some sugar (typical Indonesian, as I have mentioned), put the hot water, and stir them all. C’est tout.

It is just last week that my brother-in-law gave me his coffee maker. So far, I still haven’t used it. I still prefer to prepare my espresso with my Moka Express. See the picture here. It is a Bialetti stove. It has two part: the thorax and the abdoment, separated by two specially designed filters. The abdoment is a water tank. To prepare the coffee, fill the water tank with … water. Coffee grain are put between two filters. Apply an external thermal source (any burner you have at home) boil the water. Say “avara kadavra” to start the black magic. In one minute or so, the fresh black espresso would fill the thorax of the stove, by magic. And the water on the tank would be magically disappear. None ever understand the real process.

En fin, this afternoon I enjoy my Estate Java espresso. Hey, d’you have your own story on preparing your daily coffee? Please mail me: kuncoro at asiablogging dot com. I’d love to post your story here.

Topic: My Story

The legend that qahwa (coffee) was discovered by an Abyssinian goatherd has been told for ages, and even retold in The Thousand and One Nights. But the legend does not mention the date of the great discovery. What is part of the history is that Muslim dervishes used to consume qahwa to help them fulfill their night-time prayers. On their annual pilgrimage to Makkah, they introduced qahwa to their fellow pilgrims throughout the Islamic world. Ibnu Sina (Avicenna, 980-1037) had investigated the benefits of qahwa and promoted its consumption. Al-Razi, a 9th century Arab physician, had also described some of the properties of qahwa. By the mid-15th century coffee was established in both Persia and Arabia, and started to spread to the Europe.

Moka, or Mocha, is a small city founded by a sufi. Its port then grew rich trading in spices. By the mid-16th century it had grown into a thriving city that welcomed ships bound for destinations such as Istanbul, Qahira (Cairo), Halif (Aleppo), and Dimasq (Damascus). When the coffee tree was introduced to the high plains of Mocha’s hinterland, the green beans were transported to the coast on the backs of camels, and Mocha became the world’s foremost supplier of coffee, or, as they called it in the Europe: the mocha drink.

Abyssinia and Yemen were then the only coffee producing countries. It remained so until the mid-17th century.

Topic: History

Black Apron Exclusive (BAE) is a term referring to very special editions (compared to ‘only’ special editions) of coffee beans released by Starbucks. Their boxes contain unique samples only from certain space-time of plantation, and from certain stories behind. The first edition was released only in 2004. Kopi Kampung, which was discussed in this blog, is an example of Starbucks’ BAE. The next BAE to be released this year is yet another Indonesian coffee: Sumatra Siborong-Borong.

Lake Toba is unquestionably the greatest volcano-tectonic lake on earth, located in Sumatra island. Along the south bank, there are plantations where best Sumatra coffee plants are cultivated. The lies the small town: Siborong Borong, 1200 metres above the sea. Every morning, Batak women pick the coffee cherries and then pulp and wash them, all by hand. The wet parchment is set out to dry in the sun on tarps or woven mats in front of houses. This coffee is sorted by hand and delivered to market the day after harvest to ensure freshness. This rare coffee offers a surprising complexity, soft acidity and hints of freshly cut basil.

As the citizen of the country where the best coffee are cultivated (Java, Sumatra/Sidikalang/Mandailing/Gayo/, Sulawesi/Toraja), proudly I welcome the release of Sumatra Siborong Borong Black Apron Exclusive.

Topic: Indonesian, Sbux

Hi World :). Today AsiaBlogging opens a new blog to discuss only coffee :). The prime author, for now, is Koen. Please enjoy the warmth or the coolness of our coffee here, only in AsiaBlogging Café.

Topic: Blog

Some Howtos in Preparing Your Coffee

1. Always store roasted coffee beans in a sealed container. Do not store in refrigerator or freezer.
   –Shelf life is about two weeks for roasted beans.
2. Use the correct coffee/water ratio.
   –The standard coffee ratio is 2 level teaspoons per 6 ounces of water.
3. Start with freshly roasted coffee.
   –Without reservation, freshly roasted coffee provides for a smooth, rich flavor.
4. Grind the beans just prior to brewing.
   –The flavor and aroma are released at this point.
5. Make sure the pot is very clean.
   –Residues of soap, hard water or old oils may adversely affect the taste of your brew.
6. Use good tasting water.
   –Bottled water works great!
7. For the best coffee flavor, filter with nonreactive metal or glass.
   –Use a stainless steel or gold mesh filter, a vacuum-style pot or an expresso maker.
8. Drink your freshly brewed coffee right away.
   –Don’t let the rich flavor of freshly brewed coffee go to waste!

Topic: Tips

“It came from Jampit,” she said. I read its label once more: Estate Java. Then I knew she was right. Previously, on the phone she said that Starbucks’ brand for it is Estate Java, instead of Java Estate. “It’s in East Java,” she continued, as if I didn’t listen. “But of course,” I said then, “Around Mount Ijen, isn’t it?” She nodded, then continued proudly, “We have visited the plantation.” Then we continued the chat by talking about small Coffee plantation around West Java, where we live.

Java Estate is a remainder of Arabica coffee plantation in Java Island. Originally, they cultivated only Arabica coffee here in Indonesia. But after a catastrophic epidemic, all the plants cultivated below 1000m were replaced by Liberica, and then replaced again with Robusta variety. Only a very small number of plantations are still cultivating Arabica variety.

The Java Estate is planted around the Mount Ijen by a state-owned company called PTPN XII. Almost 85% of the coffee beans are exported unroasted. It is therefore easier to find the Java Estate in a city like Seattle than in any city in Indonesia. Certain companies, such as Caswell, have been reimporting them back to Indonesia. You can visit such café in Jakarta, and order your special cup of hot Java Estate.

After the talk with the barrista at Starbucks Ciwalk (Bandung), I took home a bag of this Java Estate (ouch, Estate Java) of Starbucks. It refreshed me this morning. And what should I say about the taste? Ah, it is rather personal. I have a certain feeling that it is not the first time I taste this kind of coffee. Indeed, it was like the taste of coffee I used to drink on my childhood. Coffee of Sidomulyo, purchased only in Malang (East Java).

Topic: Indonesian

Go Soe Loet arrived at Java island around the beginning of 20th century from Fujian. Working as a trader, he saw that many people love to drink coffee. So he decided to commence a business in coffee, in 1927. To memorise how he came to Java, he chose ‘steam ship’ as his brand. Kapal Api. Keeping the price down so the people could afford it, he blended his coffee with corn. Note that at that time, coffee has been sold as commodity without brand.

In 1968, Go’s son, Soedomo Mergonoto, began to work as a salesman in his father’s company. Another observation began. He saw an innovation of Unilever. When other companies sold soap in long bars to be sliced off, Unilever began to sell soap in pre-wrapped single-size bar. And more, Unilever advertised its product! When Soedomo took over the company from his father in 1978, he copied the innovation to his coffee product. He made an ad with Paimo (then a famous comedian in East Java) displayed taking a cup of coffee. It made a hit, and sales multiplied overnight. In 3 months, Kapal Api became the largest coffee company in Surabaya.

In 1982, Soedomo purchased a 500 kg/h roasting machine from Germany, assuming it would run 7 hours/day after a few years. Indeed, this machine was running 24 hours/day a year later. And soon, Kapal Api became the largest coffee company in Indonesia. Still, they had no plan to have their own plantation.

However, in 1986 the Indonesian Administration offered Kapal Api to take over an old coffee plantation on Mount Kalosi in Central Sulawesi. In exchange, Kapal Api must carry out the development of the area. Since then, Kapal Api manages all business of coffee: the plantation, roasting, and distribution.

Now Kapal Api operates the largest coffee roasting machine in the world (5 T/hour). Yet, the smaller 500 kg/h machine is still operating. It also has several major brands of coffee in Indonesia (Excelso, Santos, etc), as well as the famous café Excelso. In Sulawesi, Kapal Api has built hundreds of kilometers of roads and 26 bridges.

To many Indonesians, coffee means the steam ship. (Extracted from Gabriella Teggia: A Cup of Java)

Topic: Indonesian