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Warung Tinggi

Every town in Java (and other Indonesian islands as well) has their own coffee brand. Koffie Aroma from Bandung, Kapal Api from Surabaya, etc, have their own reputation regionally (and in some cases: internationally). Jakarta, as the first site in Indonesia where coffee trees were planted, has its own classical brand: Warung Tinggi.

wartin.jpgThe story began with a small food stall in Jakarta Kota (now named Jalan Hayam Wuruk), that sold local stuff to the neighbourhood. Each day, a woman visited the shop, carried fresh coffee bean in a basket on her head. The shop owner, Liauw Tek Siong, would buy the beans, traditionally roasted the coffee in a small pan, and sold the coffee. The coffee became famous, and Mr Liauw decided to open a new shop in 1878 to sell only coffee under a new brand: Tek Soen Hoo. This shop was then handed to his son, Liauw Tian Djie. This second Liauw stopped using pan, and started mechanizing the process using a roasting drum. Some years later, in 1938, they designed a logo for the coffee: a picture of a lady who originally sold them the coffee beans.

On Soe Har To’s new order era, the government discouraged the usage of chinese name or brand throughout the country. Liauw chose to change the brand of his coffee. Considering that his shop was famous as the highest food stall on the neighbourhood, he adopted the name Warung Tinggi (high shop) as his new brand.

The third generation took over the business in 1969, under Liauw Tiam Yan. The junior Liauw began packing his beans in aluminium foil instead of brown paper. In 1994, the production outpaced the capacity, and the roasting machines were moved out to Tangerang. In 2001, the Liauw family decided to split into two groups: one to continue with the Warung Tinggi brand, and the other to establish a new brand: Bakoel Koffie. Unfortunately, the Warung Tinggi brand was then sold to another investor. Now the Liauw’s fourth generation continues with the brand Bakoel Koffie.

If we are lucky, we can find both Warung Tinggi dan Bakoel Koffie brand in Jakarta. Sometimes we could also find Warung Tinggi with old package of brown paper, with label “Wartin” on it. It is another Indonesian culture: to make abbreviations of almost everything.

Reference: Gabriella Teggia, A Cup of Java.

Add a comment 4 comments for this entry.

  1. selvi

    i’m an undergraduated student of Bina Nusantara University in Jakarta,majoring graphic design…I’m on the last year for a bachelor degree..preparing for my thesis…i’m interested in this wartin coffee packaging as my main subject of the thesis..may i know much about this coffee? or maybe i could have any contact number to get some information to fullfil my thesis? thanks before…

    February 15th, 2008 at 11:38 pm

  2. Kopi dari Jakarta : Warung Tinggi « toni wahid

    […] yan ingin mengetahui tentang kisah Kopi Warung Tinggi (WT) silakan berkunjung ke blog Koen’s Coffee. Ini kopi dari Jakarta dijual seharga 6.250 per bungkus (250gr)yang saya peroleh dari warung […]

    February 18th, 2008 at 2:19 am

  3. aaqq

    i’d like to try that, on my next visit to jakarta. in bogor, my mother always serves us with kopi liong bulan. sometimes she bought that newly-grind coffee from a store in pasar anyar. we also can find it in some supermarkets in bogor, but not too easy though :)

    February 22nd, 2008 at 11:27 pm

  4. hope this can help you.

    Dear Selvi,

    Langsung aja yah, Saya tinggal di Jalan yang sama dengan Toko warung tinggi terakhir, Pemilik Warung tinggi terakhir itu tinggal di Tanki Sekolah Jakarta Barat, Gampangnya kamu ke Jalan Hayam wuruk, antara Hotel Jayakarta dan Sekolah Sariputra ada satu jalan namanya Tangki Sekolah,
    Pemilik Warung tinggi yang terakhir juga Ketua RT Di jalan ini namanya Rudi. Hope this can help your thesis

    New York City 040308

    April 3rd, 2008 at 12:46 pm

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